Scotty Cameron Del Mar Two mid slant Tel3 finished in pro platnum

Scotty Cameron Studio Style Newport 2

Nike UNITIZED TIEMPO- Beautiful at setup

I also play the Taylormade Itsy Bitsy Spider...wow!

Putters are very tricky to evaluate. You need to know if you are a back and thru or an arc putter. It you are a back and thru putter you should consider a face balanced putter and if you are an arc putter then you need to look at toe weighted putters. Large headed putters allow for more forgiveness on off center putts. Blade putters require more center hits and sometimes will turn in your hand if your grip gets loose. The grip of a putter is also a critical factor. Some grips will make the putter feel that you can keep you putter head moving towards the target better. Also the length of the putter is very important as well. Try a lot of putters and make sure you putt at least 10 putts with each and vary the distance.

Never Compromise GM2 exchange #4

Rife Mr. Beasley

MIZUNO BETTINARDI BLACK. GORGEOUS PERFORMANCE.

It is a HOG. Great balance and good alignment marker without being distracting. I usually 1-2 putt every hole and here on Maui with our grass and green slopes that is GOOD.

I would have to say the Odyssey White Hot Tour #1. I've been using this putter for the last few months and it's just perfect for me. The head is fairly heavy which I like and the soft insert lends itself well to faster greens. I chose this putter over a Scotty Cameron Studio Select. The performance is close enough to that of a Scotty (although nothing really compares to a Scotty) but at half the price.

There's really no irons that will help you hit the ball low if it's in your swing, but if you have some "players" clubs like blade style or very minimal cavity back irons it will help. Also, try getting them in shafts that have a high kick point (my favs are the true temper golds) that should help also. You are going to have to change your swing eventually though

I'm a 14-15 handicapper and also pick the ball with high loft and less distance, but I am comfortable with it because my distance between numbered irons is very little, the ball sticks on the greens, and I don't have to hit a lot of half or three-quarter shots. However, I usually hit my fairway metals pretty well leaving me a big gap between my longest iron and my shortest fairway metal. What I did was buy a set of 3 hybrids and dropped my 3 and 4 irons. The hybrids covered my shot distance gaps very well without having to change my swing or buying a new set of irons. Hope this gives you another option.

try switching shafts to the Rifle Project X flighted...the kick points are different on all shafts, your shorter irons stay ower, longer irons a little higher. i use them with the taylor made tour preffered irons in a 5.5 flex and love the result

Before you do that try changing the position of the ball in stance.

I would suspect that if you are "picking" the ball off the turf and you have a VERY high ball flight that you have an improper release where you are letting the clubhead pass your hands at the bottom of your swing. This is caused by a breakdown of your left wrist which does not allow the club the get to the ground. Game improvement irons are designed to help struggling players get the ball into the air, so going with something like that will only further your problem. Blades are going to cause you to lose even more distance and by picking the ball will cause lots of nasty feelings in the hands.

I would suggest that rather than spending money on a new set of clubs, you invest in some lessons to help get you releasing the club properly. A proper release will go a long way to improving not only your distance but also your shot control and accuracy.

I'd say, based on my own experience, to get a stiffer shaft in your irons - that will tend to lower your trajectory without really making you affect your swing. You could also try a set of muscle-back blades - those will often tend to flatten the trajectory because they're not weighted to help a beginner get the ball in the air.

I'd hit a set of blades with a stiffer shaft out at the range a few times and see how it goes. if you're already striking the ball well, you might benefit from the blades in other ways, too - more control, etc. Good luck!!

As a novice golfer I'm all about forgiveness. I recently purchased new clubs myself and have a few recommendations from what I've tried. In my bag I already had a Taylormade Tour Burner TP in the driver slot, but everything else was updated.

Irons - I focused on three sets of irons before deciding: Ping G15, Taylormade Burner Plus and the Cobra S2s. I found too much vibration in the G15s and had to discount them first. I got a little more forgiveness from the Taylormades than the Cobras but both were equally good. The deciding factor for me was the long irons. I have trouble hitting them so the Burner Plus set with the hybrid 3 and 4 is what I chose.

Fairways - I only purchased a 3 wood. I was most interested in the Ping G10 and the Cobra S9-1 Speed. I looked at these for forgiveness as well as depth as most of the fairways today have shallow faces. I got the Cobra because of availability since the G10s are old model and the G15s are more prevalent.
Instead of a 5 wood I opted for a 17 degree rescue club. I went with the Taylormade Rescue TP. I chose the TP because it has a little beefier Voodoo shaft. My swing could definitely use some work but I've found I hit this club really well.

Wedges - I don't know about forgiveness but I went with the Cleveland CG14s. It was between those and the Vokey wedges. Either is a good choice but with the price drop I couldn't pass up the Clevelands.

Putter - Putters are all personal preference. I like a putter with good weight but a softer face. I went with the White Hot Marksman. This had the right combination of feel and weight for me.

the most forgiving irons in my opinion would be the cobra s9. very soft on impact and mishits don't stray too much to left or right. everyone is going to have their own opinion though. people who like a certain brand is going to recommend that brand to you but every company has their version of forgiving irons. i play taylormade myself but i would recommend the cobra s9 for the most forgiving and they aren't huge like some of the game improvement irons out today.

for driver i would recommend you NOT get the heads that rotate. they might help with slice or hooks but if you keep your same swing and just change the head around you will suffer on your irons since you can't change the position on your irons. i recommend the ping g10 but since the g15 is coming out that might be more forgiving, but as long as you have a newer driver with a 460 cc head it's all in the shaft you use.

wedges would be your preference all the way. pro line wedges are all great you just have to find the right one for you. you can never go wrong with vokeys. just get them before next year so you still have the square grooves.

putters would def be odyssey two-ball

hope this helps and good luck!!!

Pick up a set of the Taylormade r7 Irons. They are a few years old, but they will give you room to improve but also give you pretty good forgiveness.

Other popular forgiving irons are the ping G10's

Any cavity back clubs should do the trick. As long as they are quality built clubs you will find the swing is way more important than the make. Try out a few sets at a local store then compare the prices on-line. Some clubs just look and feel right. A friend just let me play with a set of Mizunos that were just mint and he was practically giving them away. Just couldn't hit them. Plenty of options out there and there is no reason to spend a ton of money.

Taylormade R9 with Graphite shafts. They have a good sweet spot and do not punich off center hits too badly.

here is a list of forgiving clubs

*Taylormade burner driver (easy to hit)

*Callaway Big Bertha Diablo Fairway Wood (big head)

*mizuno mx 200 irons(game improvement irons that are forged)

*Cleveland cg11 wedges (have a cavity)

The spin rate on the 460 is lower than the r9 so the r9 will go higher. But the r9 is a lot easier to shape.

You have to go with the Cobra S9-1. It is totaly better than the r9. If still want a r9 i have a brand new one stiff shaft with tool for cheap.

Depends, if u want to shape the ball definatley the regular but if u want to just boom it and go with 460

This is a pretty simple answer in my opinion. If you are a 15+ handicap, you are probably not the most accurate off the tee and down hit the sweet spot on a regular, consistent basis. I don't mean to offend, I'm just trying to help. You also probably are not interested in working the ball left to right or right to left when the fairway calls for it. Straight would be great I'm sure. If I am accurate, I would strongly recommend going with the 460 because it will offer much more forgiveness on mis-hits and probably give you more distance as a result. Workability will be reduced but that shouldn't be the focus if you're shooting 90's. I also strongly recommend getting fit for the proper shaft for your swing. This is the most CRUCIAL aspect here, the shaft will make all the difference, more so than the head. Be picky, and take your time, more expensive shafts are not always better either. Stiffer will normally make you more accurate and less stiff will normally give you more distance, though there are more factors than that. Pay close attention to flex points and tip stiffness.

The 460 is gonna be easier to hit. but i like the loom of the regular R9 i have hit both not to much of a difference but i like the regular R9 but i shoot like low 80s high 70s.

tour burner reg shaft steel

I can't offer much advice on the squared drivers, I still haven't found one that I can hit consistently. However, if forgiveness is what you're looking for, I recommend the Ping G15. Unbelievably forgiving! Long and straight, even on mis hits. Well worth the $300.

See my FT-I versus FT-IQ review. I'm a 14-15 handicapper. I used a Taylormade R7 and tried a friend's squarehead homemade driver one day. Drives were just as long as my R7 but consistently straighter. I switched to his homemade driver and hit everything straighter than ever but his driver stung my fingers. So I recently tried out the FT-I and FT-IQ at a local golf shops simulated range. After a few buckets each the computer showed both drivers to be dead straight, but the FT-IQ averaged 3 yards longer than the FT-I. I use a regular shaft at 10 degrees. Golfsmith had the FT-I for $149.99 and if you signed up for their newsletter you got a 10% off coupon. If you add a 99 cent divot tool, you go over $150 before discount and get free shipping. The FT-IQ was something like $499 which was out of my price range, so I bought the FT-I and awaiting delivery. Maybe a FT-IQ when the price drops way down.

You may want to look into changing shafts if accuracy is a problem either stiffer more flex loft things of that nature. You dont need a sqaure driver either. Rmember all clubs hit different in the store than away i would always try used first.

Most drivers nowdays are 460cc. A modern driver that has a smaller head would be the Nike VR Tour which has a 420cc head. Don't get discouraged by the word "tour" because the forgiveness is reletively the same as the sister driver, the Nike VR Str8-fit (460cc). Another option, the Callaway Diablo Edge Tour. 440cc head, incredible fogiveness for a tour driver.

check out the taylormade r7 limited (130$) or the r9 if you have the money the are both below that i love my r7 thats why i bought it

I'm guessing you're having controling ball flight left or right? Try a 460cc diver head with a blank spot (no grooves) in the center of the face of the driver head. This will cause less spin on the golf ball at impact allowing you more ball control off the tee box.

My tip to you, im 19 years old and have been playing for about 2 years, is try out Wilson Staff clubs. Extreamly great irons, personally i play the Ci7s and fybird 3 hibrid and fybird 5 wood along with their Tw9 tour wedge. Really all i can say is study up on the pros swings. Find one you like and watch it closely and try to repeat it. Distance doesnt come till later to help you with that. So what you can do over the others is gain accuracy over them. I play to a 24 handy cap because i focuse on hitting it stright and getting on line with my shots. Even the top pros who are "bombers" on the fairways are not that accurit. they hit about 60% of fairways/greens. i hit about 75%. My dad can hit the ball 300+off the tee and with his 3 wood can hit it 270, i can hit my driver 250-270 on adverage. Try to master thoughs woods of yours off the fairways and rough. learn the different shots and angles. Try getting your 3 iron maybe 4 iron or if you need to 5 iron replaced with a hibird. they really are easy to hit. I love mine and hit it just like how i would a 3 iron anyways. Work on putting to. If you want forgiving clubs try Wilson Staff's Di9 irons or d-fybird clubs. the fybirds are a little pricy but the Di9s are good priced. They are really easy to hit and have good distance off them. Try using a 2 pice golf ball that is softer if you dont have a fast swing. Try the Nike Karma, Wilson Staff 50, or even the Bridgestone Triosoft. I play the Wilson Staff Zip302s because i get great preformance off them along with distance and they are really soft but also because of the cold. But my Ball of choice is the Bridgestone e5+. My reall advice for complet help on your game go to Golfsmith its self or a local dealer and have them completely fit you for every thing. They will find you the clubs, shafts, grips, balls, and putters to help improve your game. Hope i can help you with this. Good luck to you on the course and may the best for you in your future in golf.

I am 13 years old on the high school team and I can't hit the ball half as far as them. I would say to not morry about distance just focus on your short game and keeping your drives and irons in the fairway. Distance will come to you sooner or later and if you learn to play well without distance once you get disstance you'll be better than most of the kids.

Try a weighted training driver. I'm not the biggest of the bunch either and after swinging one of the weighted drivers for 10 shots, my driver felt light and I could swing it faster and much farther. I was hitting the back of 2 ranges where bigger guys were not. The only problem is that I have to use it on the range before every round to get the feel into my head. If you did that for high school golf, you'd have to declare the club out of play to opponents to avoid it counting toward your club count, and not to forget doing it because the penalty is harsh if you have too many clubs. Read that rule. Good luck!

You probably don't want to go to a lower lofted driver. Depending on your age, physical ability, a different shaft may help you. If you have the time, go demo different types of drivers to include different shaft stiffness. This will give you a better idea of what technology is currently on the market that can help you. Without spending some time watching you hit, there might be some simple changes you can make to create a more penetrating drive by changing your swing. An hour with a golf pro might be helpful.

Yes, i know Titleist and Ping make drivers that have lofts as low a 7 degrees but they have to be special ordered but im not too sure on the other companies. But at any Golfsmith store they can custom make a driver and you can get a loft as low as five degrees i think. They aren't going to be made by the big name manufactures like Titleist, Ping or Taylormade but the driver heads are made out of the same quality materials and you can also put in any shaft thats made by well know companies, and the shafts which i have been told numerous times is the most important part of the club,also if you want to bring your trajectory and spin rate down find a shaft with a low torque and a very stiff tip.

Before buying a new driver, try dragging the club head along the ground about 18 inches back from the ball during your backswing. It will keep your wrists straighter longer giving you a less ascending blow. When individuals are hitting the ball too high, it is often due to an iron type swing. Basically you are hitting down on the ball forcing it upward. If you do not want to change your swing then two options to help control height. Any of the R7 drivers have an 8/8.5 degree head with adjustable weights put all the weight on the toe and heal, then put one gram weights in the center. This will help you send the ball out at a lower trajectory. If you like Titlest they have a similar driver technology, but with out the ability to change it. I have the r 7 cgb max limited with interchangeable shafts and interchangeable weights. The 65 Rombax shaft torque point helps keep the ball lower then you load up the weight previously mentioned. It will be the best $250 dollars you ever spent, but again it isn't the only option. Another good driver is the 8 degree FT-Iq, expensive and reduces workability for drawing and fading, but long and low.

regular shaft

1.) Get Fitted
2.) You are in between a Reg. flex and a Stiff.

All shafts are different (i.e. kick points and stiffness) A reg flex could lean towards a stiff or a senior shaft by measuring the frequency.

My opinion, if you cant get fitted, go for a reg flex shaft. If you hit the ball too low, go for one with a LOW kickpoint. If you hit it too high, go for a mid or high kick point shaft. Typically, you can bend the shaft by holding both ends and see where the kick point is.

Good luck!

Consider the level of your play based on your swing tendencies. With a swing speed of 92, regular shaft clubs would be right ones for you. My experience has been that you need to match up the right ball for your swing speed and the right clubs that feel good when you hit them. Pick out a club, say an 8 iron and know the distance you hit it and go to a demo day and hit all 8 irons of all manufacturers. Another critical element is the loft of the 8 iron, that is important in knowing if you are getting consistent distance you are expecting. Most people don't ask about loft of club, that will definitely affect your distance and there is a difference in loft in almost all clubs. Know that to know what you can expect distance wise. You will probably find that some least expensive irons hit just a good if not better that the expensive irons. That is my suggestion when evalulate clubs, especially irons.

Sounds like you can get away with a light shaft say around 50-55 grams. You will be more accurate and have the same distance.

If you are hitting the senior shafts well, it's the right shaft. Best driver for you, Cobra S2 offset with the lite shaft, which is similar to the senior. I tried the S2 driver without offset. My current driver is the 2009 Callaway Big Bertha Diablo and I normally hit this thing around 240 yards. With the S2, first thing I noticed, huge improvement in distance. Up to 25 yards extra carry and around 260 yards in total distance. It's also has a good value for money. So give it a try and I hope the club would improve your driving.